In the world of fashion and textiles, the success of a design depends not only on its aesthetic lines but also on the technical quality of the fabric chosen. Knit fabrics, which particularly stand out for their elasticity, comfort, and draping structure, have a delicate composition that leaves no room for error during production. Choosing the wrong fabric can lead to faulty patterns, shrinkage problems, seam bursting during sewing, and ultimately customer dissatisfaction. We can list the 7 golden parameters that should be on your radar when technically analyzing a knit fabric as follows:
- Fabric Weight (M2 Weight – GSM)
- Yarn Count and Composition
- Fabric Width and Shrinkage (Dimensional Stability)
- Spirality (Fabric Torque)
- Elasticity and Recovery
- Pilling Tendency
- Color Fastness (Rubbing, Washing, and Light Fastness)
Fabric Weight (M2 Weight – GSM)
The first parameter examined when selecting a knit fabric — and one that directly affects cost — is weight (GSM). GSM refers to the weight, in grams, of one square meter of fabric. The fabric's weight determines the seasonality and intended use of the final product. For example, single jersey fabrics of 120-160 GSM are ideal for lightweight t-shirts, while three-thread or fleece fabrics in the 280-350 GSM range are preferred for sweatshirt production. When analyzing weight, the fabric's moisture content and the processes it undergoes during finishing must always be taken into account. Insufficient or excessive weight directly increases waste rates in cutting planning.
Yarn Count and Composition
The most fundamental factor determining a knit fabric's hand-feel, strength, and appearance is the structure of the yarn from which it is made. Yarn count (Ne, Nm, or Denier) indicates the fineness or thickness of the yarn. In knit fabrics, the Ne (English Cotton Count) system is generally used for cotton. As the number increases, the yarn becomes finer (e.g., Ne 30/1 yarn is finer than Ne 20/1 yarn). In addition, fiber composition (100% cotton, cotton-polyester, viscose, lycra, etc.) determines the fabric's functional properties:
- Cotton: Offers breathability and a natural feel.
- Viscose: Adds shine and excellent drape.
- Polyester: Provides durability and reduces wrinkling.
3. Kumaş Eni ve Çekmezlik
The hidden hero of cost management in textile manufacturing is fabric width. Because knit fabrics are inherently elastic, maintaining width stability is difficult. Whether the fabric is "tubular" or "open width" directly affects the marker (cutting layout) plan. Even more critical is the fabric's dimensional stability after washing — that is, its shrinkage value. According to international standards (ISO 6330), a quality knit fabric is expected to have a shrinkage rate not exceeding 3% to 5% in both width and length direction after washing. Fabrics with a high shrinkage rate cause finished garments to shrink in size or lose their shape after washing.
4. May Dönmesi
Due to the tensions that occur during production on circular knitting machines and the twist direction of the yarn, a spiral tendency can develop in the fabric. This is called "spirality" (fabric torque) in textile terminology. Frequently seen especially in single jersey fabrics, this causes the side seams of products such as t-shirts to shift forward or backward after washing. Technically, a spirality rate below 4% is considered an acceptable limit. Before moving to the garment-making stage, it must be ensured that the fabric's heat-setting (fixing the form with heat) process has been carried out correctly.
5. Esneklik ve Geri Toplama
The greatest advantage that sets knit fabrics apart from woven fabrics is their elasticity. However, it is not enough for the fabric to simply stretch — how successfully it returns to its original shape after stretching is even more critical. This parameter is vital for fabrics containing elastane (lycra). Garments made from fabrics with poor recovery show problems such as bagging at the knees and elbows. When choosing a fabric, attention should be paid to the elastane ratio and knit density appropriate for the force the product will be subjected to.
6. Pilling Eğilimi
Pilling refers to the formation of small fuzz balls on the fabric surface caused by fibers clumping together during use and friction. This risk is quite high, especially in knit fabrics blended with polyester, acrylic, or viscose. A fabric's pilling tendency is tested in laboratories (e.g., using the ICI Pilling Box or Martindale methods). On a scale of 1 to 5, a score of 5 means "no fuzzing," while 1 means "very heavy fuzzing." To protect your brand value, fabrics chosen for commercial production should have a pilling rating of at least 3-4.
7. Renk Haslığı
No matter how flawlessly a fabric is knitted, it is of poor quality if it cannot retain its color. The following fastness criteria must always be examined in the technical data sheet (test report) when sourcing knit fabric:
- Washing fastness: The color must not fade during washing and must not stain adjacent white fabrics.
- Rubbing fastness (dry/wet): The fabric must not transfer color to other surfaces (such as a white bag or sofa) during use.
- Light fastness: The rate at which the fabric's color fades when exposed to sunlight.
This is especially critical in designs where contrasting colors are used together (such as black-and-white stripes) — high wet rubbing and washing fastness (at least level 4) is essential for production safety.
The Right Fabric, Flawless Production — with Yurda Örme
Choosing the right knit fabric is the cornerstone of the textile production chain. Correctly analyzing the 7 technical parameters listed above prevents time and financial losses that could otherwise occur during manufacturing. At Yurda Örme, with our high-technology production facilities and expert team, we test all these technical parameters to world standards to offer your brand the highest-quality knit fabric solutions. You can contact us to determine the fabric structure best suited to your needs and to safeguard your collections.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can we test the accuracy of fabric weight at home or in the workshop?
To precisely measure a fabric's weight, a circular blade tool called a "GSM cutter" is used to take a sample from the fabric. This round sample is weighed on a precision scale, and the result is multiplied by 100 to obtain the fabric's GSM value. Estimated measurements made without a precision scale and cutting tool can be misleading.
Why does seam bursting occur when sewing knit fabrics containing lycra (elastane)?
Seam bursting is usually caused by a mismatch between the fabric's stretch capacity and the sewing thread or stitch density used. When sewing lycra fabrics, ballpoint (jersey-tip) needles should be used, and stretch-friendly stitch types such as chain stitch or overlock should be preferred. In addition, a loose knit construction (low stitch density) in the fabric can also cause dropped stitches and bursting.
Can "spirality" (fabric torque) in knit fabrics be detected in advance?
Yes, it can be detected. Before cutting begins in garment production, a wash test is applied to a sample taken from the fabric (usually measuring 50×50 cm). After washing and drying, the amount of deviation from right angles in the fabric is measured. If this deviation exceeds 4%, it means there is a serious risk of spirality in the fabric, and special orientation adjustments in the cutting patterns — or re-fixing (re-heat-setting) the fabric — become necessary.
