{"id":21604,"date":"2026-06-25T14:49:22","date_gmt":"2026-06-25T14:49:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/yurdaorme.com.tr\/?p=21604"},"modified":"2026-07-27T08:48:14","modified_gmt":"2026-07-27T08:48:14","slug":"7-%d1%82%d0%b5%d1%85%d0%bd%d0%b8%d1%87%d0%ba%d0%b8%d1%85-%d0%bf%d0%b0%d1%80%d0%b0%d0%bc%d0%b5%d1%82%d0%b0%d1%80%d0%b0-%d0%ba%d0%be%d1%98%d0%b5-%d1%82%d1%80%d0%b5%d0%b1%d0%b0-%d1%83%d0%b7%d0%b5%d1%82","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/yurdaorme.com.tr\/sr\/orme-kumas-secerken-dikkat-edilmesi-gereken-7-teknik-parametre\/","title":{"rendered":"7 tehni\u010dkih parametara na koje treba obratiti pa\u017enju prilikom izbora pletene tkanine"},"content":{"rendered":"
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U svetu mode i tekstila, uspeh dizajna ne zavisi samo od estetskih linija, ve\u0107 i od tehni\u010dkog kvaliteta odabrane tkanine. Pletiva, koja se posebno isti\u010du svojom elasti\u010dno\u0161\u0107u, udobno\u0161\u0107u i strukturom koja lepo pada, imaju osetljivu strukturu koja ne dozvoljava gre\u0161ke tokom proizvodnje. Pogre\u0161an izbor tkanine mo\u017ee dovesti do neispravnih \u0161ablona, problema sa skupljanjem, pucanja \u0161avova prilikom \u0161ivenja i, na kraju, do nezadovoljstva kupaca. Sedam klju\u010dnih parametara na koje treba obratiti pa\u017enju prilikom tehni\u010dke analize pletiva mo\u017eemo navesti na slede\u0107i na\u010din:<\/p>\n\n

    \n
  1. Grama\u017ea tkanine (te\u017eina po m\u00b2 \u2013 GSM)<\/strong><\/li>\n\n
  2. Broj i sastav prediva<\/strong><\/li>\n\n
  3. \u0160irina tkanine i skupljanje (dimenziona stabilnost)<\/strong><\/li>\n\n
  4. Spiralnost tkanine\u00a0<\/strong><\/li>\n\n
  5. Elasti\u010dnost i vra\u0107anje u prvobitni oblik\u00a0<\/strong><\/li>\n\n
  6. Sklonost ka pilingu<\/strong><\/li>\n\n
  7. Postojanost boje (na trljanje, pranje i svetlost)<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n

    1. \u0422\u0435\u0436\u0438\u043d\u0430 \u0442\u043a\u0430\u043d\u0438\u043d\u0435 (\u0422\u0435\u0436\u0438\u043d\u0430 \u043f\u043e \u043a\u0432\u0430\u0434\u0440\u0430\u0442\u043d\u043e\u043c \u043c\u0435\u0442\u0440\u0443 \u2013 \u0413\u0421\u041c)<\/h3>\n\n

    Prvi parametar na koji se obra\u0107a pa\u017enja prilikom izbora pletiva, i koji direktno uti\u010de na tro\u0161kove, jeste grama\u017ea. Grama\u017ea ozna\u010dava te\u017einu jednog kvadratnog metra tkanine izra\u017eenu u gramima. Grama\u017ea tkanine odre\u0111uje sezonalnost i namenu krajnjeg proizvoda. Na primer, za lagane majice idealna su jersey (supremm) pletiva grama\u017ee 120-160 g\/m\u00b2, dok se za proizvodnju duksera preferiraju troprediva ili flis pletiva u rasponu od 280-350 g\/m\u00b2. Prilikom analize grama\u017ee obavezno treba uzeti u obzir sadr\u017eaj vlage u tkanini i procese kojima je tkanina izlo\u017eena tokom dorade. Nedovoljna ili prekomerna grama\u017ea direktno pove\u0107ava procenat otpada prilikom planiranja kroja.<\/p>\n\n

    Broj i sastav prediva<\/h3>\n\n

    Najosnovniji faktor koji odre\u0111uje opip, \u010dvrsto\u0107u i izgled pletiva jeste struktura prediva od kog je izra\u0111eno. Broj prediva (Ne, Nm ili denier) ozna\u010dava fino\u0107u odnosno debljinu prediva. Kod pletiva se za pamuk obi\u010dno koristi sistem Ne (engleski pamu\u010dni broj). \u0160to je broj ve\u0107i, predivo je tanje (npr. predivo Ne 30\/1 je tanje od prediva Ne 20\/1). Pored toga, sastav vlakana (100% pamuk, pamuk-poliester, viskoza, likra itd.) odre\u0111uje funkcionalna svojstva tkanine:<\/p>\n\n

      \n
    • Pamuk:<\/strong> pru\u017ea prozra\u010dnost i prirodan opip.<\/li>\n\n
    • Viskoza:<\/strong> daje sjaj i izra\u017eeno padanje tkanine.<\/li>\n\n
    • Poliester:<\/strong> pru\u017ea izdr\u017eljivost i smanjuje gu\u017evanje.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n

      3. \u0428\u0438\u0440\u0438\u043d\u0430 \u0442\u043a\u0430\u043d\u0438\u043d\u0435 \u0438 \u043e\u0442\u043f\u043e\u0440\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442 \u043d\u0430 \u0441\u043a\u0443\u043f\u0459\u0430\u045a\u0435\u00a0<\/h3>\n\n

      Skriveni junak upravljanja tro\u0161kovima u tekstilnoj proizvodnji jeste \u0161irina tkanine. Po\u0161to su pletiva po svojoj prirodi elasti\u010dna, te\u0161ko je odr\u017eati stabilnost \u0161irine. To da li je tkanina \"cevasta\" ili \"otvorene \u0161irine\" direktno uti\u010de na plan kroja (raspored \u0161ablona). Jo\u0161 kriti\u010dnije je dimenziona stabilnost tkanine nakon pranja, odnosno vrednost skupljanja. Prema me\u0111unarodnim standardima (ISO 6330), od kvalitetnog pletiva se o\u010dekuje da skupljanje nakon pranja, i po \u0161irini i po du\u017eini, ne prelazi 3% do 5%. Tkanine sa visokim procentom skupljanja dovode do smanjenja veli\u010dine ili deformacije gotovih odevnih predmeta nakon pranja.<\/p>\n\n

      4. \u041c\u0430\u0458\u0441\u043a\u0430 \u0440\u0435\u0432\u043e\u043b\u0443\u0446\u0438\u0458\u0430\u00a0<\/h3>\n\n

      Zbog napetosti koje nastaju tokom proizvodnje na kru\u017enim pleta\u0107im ma\u0161inama, kao i zbog pravca uvijanja prediva, u tkanini se mo\u017ee javiti sklonost ka spiralnom uvrtanju. U tekstilnoj terminologiji ovo se naziva spiralnost tkanine. Ova pojava, koja se posebno \u010desto javlja kod jersey (supremm) pletiva, dovodi do toga da se bo\u010dni \u0161avovi proizvoda poput majica pomeraju napred ili nazad nakon pranja. Tehni\u010dki, stopa spiralnosti ispod 4% smatra se prihvatljivom granicom. Pre prelaska na fazu konfekcije, potrebno je proveriti da li je proces termofiksacije (fiksiranja oblika toplotom) tkanine pravilno sproveden.<\/p>\n\n

      5. \u0424\u043b\u0435\u043a\u0441\u0438\u0431\u0438\u043b\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442 \u0438 \u043e\u043f\u043e\u0440\u0430\u0432\u0430\u043a<\/h3>\n\n

      Najve\u0107a prednost pletiva u odnosu na tkane materijale jeste njihova elasti\u010dnost. Me\u0111utim, nije dovoljno da se tkanina samo raste\u017ee \u2014 mnogo je va\u017enije koliko uspe\u0161no se vra\u0107a u prvobitni oblik nakon rastezanja. Ovaj parametar je od vitalnog zna\u010daja za tkanine koje sadr\u017ee elastan (likru). Kod odevnih predmeta izra\u0111enih od tkanina sa slabim vra\u0107anjem u prvobitni oblik javljaju se problemi kao \u0161to je stvaranje \"kesa\" na kolenima i laktovima. Prilikom izbora tkanine treba obratiti pa\u017enju na udeo elastana i gustinu pletenja koji odgovaraju sili kojoj \u0107e proizvod biti izlo\u017een.<\/p>\n\n

      6. \u0421\u043a\u043b\u043e\u043d\u043e\u0441\u0442 \u043a\u0430 \u043d\u0430\u0441\u0442\u0430\u043d\u043a\u0443 \u0433\u0440\u0443\u0434\u0432\u0438\u0446\u0430<\/h3>\n\n

      Piling predstavlja pojavu malih grudvica na povr\u0161ini tkanine usled sabijanja vlakana tokom upotrebe i trenja. Ovaj rizik je posebno visok kod pletiva sa dodatkom poliestera, akrila ili viskoze. Sklonost tkanine ka pilingu testira se u laboratorijama (npr. metodama ICI Pilling Box ili Martindale). Na skali od 1 do 5, ocena 5 zna\u010di \"bez dla\u010denja\", dok ocena 1 zna\u010di \"veoma izra\u017eeno dla\u010denje\". Radi o\u010duvanja vrednosti brenda, tkanine namenjene komercijalnoj proizvodnji trebalo bi da imaju ocenu pilinga od najmanje 3-4.<\/p>\n\n

      7. \u0418\u0437\u0434\u0440\u0436\u0459\u0438\u0432\u043e\u0441\u0442 \u0431\u043e\u0458\u0435<\/h3>\n\n

      Koliko god tkanina bila besprekorno pletena, smatra se nekvalitetnom ako ne zadr\u017eava boju. Prilikom nabavke pletiva, u tehni\u010dkom listu (izve\u0161taju o testiranju) obavezno treba proveriti slede\u0107e kriterijume postojanosti boje:<\/p>\n\n

        \n
      • Postojanost na pranje:<\/strong> boja ne sme da bledi tokom pranja niti da uprlja susedne bele tkanine.<\/li>\n\n
      • Postojanost na trljanje (suvo\/mokro):<\/strong> tkanina ne sme da prenosi boju na druge povr\u0161ine (na primer, belu torbu ili sofu) tokom upotrebe.<\/li>\n\n
      • Postojanost na svetlost:<\/strong> brzina bledenja boje tkanine pod uticajem sun\u010deve svetlosti.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n

        Ovo je posebno bitno kod dizajna u kojima se koriste kontrastne boje zajedno (kao \u0161to su crno-bele pruge) \u2014 visoka postojanost na mokro trljanje i pranje (najmanje nivo 4) je neophodna radi bezbednosti proizvodnje.<\/p>\n\n

        Pravi izbor tkanine, besprekorna proizvodnja \u2014 uz Yurda \u00d6rme<\/h2>\n\n

        Izbor pravog pletiva je temelj tekstilnog proizvodnog lanca. Pravilna analiza gore navedenih 7 tehni\u010dkih parametara spre\u010dava gubitke vremena i novca tokom proizvodnje. Kao Yurda \u00d6rme, zahvaljuju\u0107i na\u0161em visokotehnolo\u0161kom proizvodnom parku i stru\u010dnom timu, testiramo sve ove tehni\u010dke parametre prema svetskim standardima kako bismo va\u0161em brendu ponudili najkvalitetnija re\u0161enja od pletenih tkanina. Mo\u017eete nas kontaktirati kako biste odredili strukturu tkanine koja najbolje odgovara va\u0161im potrebama i osigurali svoje kolekcije.<\/p>\n\n

        \u010cesto postavljana pitanja<\/h2>\n\n

        Kako mo\u017eemo proveriti ta\u010dnost grama\u017ee tkanine kod ku\u0107e ili u radionici?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n

        Za precizno merenje grama\u017ee tkanine koristi se okrugli alat za se\u010denje zvan \"GSM seka\u010d\", kojim se iz tkanine uzima uzorak. Taj okrugli uzorak se meri na preciznoj vagi, a dobijeni rezultat se mno\u017ei sa 100 kako bi se dobila GSM vrednost tkanine. Procenjena merenja bez precizne vage i alata za se\u010denje mogu biti obmanjuju\u0107a.<\/p>\n\n

        Za\u0161to dolazi do pucanja \u0161ava prilikom \u0161ivenja pletiva sa likrom (elastanom)?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n

        Pucanje \u0161ava obi\u010dno nastaje zbog neuskla\u0111enosti izme\u0111u rastegljivosti tkanine i kori\u0161\u0107enog konca ili gustine boda. Prilikom \u0161ivenja tkanina sa likrom treba koristiti igle sa zaobljenim vrhom (za pletivo), a kao vrstu \u0161ava treba dati prednost lan\u010danom bodu ili overlok \u0161avu koji podr\u017eavaju elasti\u010dnost. Osim toga, slaba gustina pletenja (konstrukcije) tkanine tako\u0111e mo\u017ee dovesti do spu\u0161tanja o\u010dica i pucanja.<\/p>\n\n

        Da li se \"spiralnost\" (uvrtanje) pletenih tkanina mo\u017ee unapred otkriti?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n

        Da, mo\u017ee se otkriti. Pre nego \u0161to po\u010dne se\u010denje u konfekcijskoj proizvodnji, uzorak uzet iz tkanine (obi\u010dno dimenzija 50\u00d750 cm) podvrgava se testu pranja. Nakon pranja i su\u0161enja meri se stepen odstupanja tkanine od pravih uglova. Ukoliko ovo odstupanje prelazi 4%, to zna\u010di da postoji ozbiljan rizik od spiralnosti tkanine, pa su potrebna posebna usmerenja u kroju \u0161ablona ili ponovna termofiksacija tkanine.<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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